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bed leveling keeps drifting

438 threads discussed this. Here is what worked. 592 ms

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  1. I've used a 3D printer that had a perforated (and heated) bed for adhesion. It was some incarnation of the Up printer -- and this was several years ago (2014 or 2015) when 3D printing was very hyped but hadn't reached…

    Marked as the answer · Use fixation holes instead heated bed · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2020 · 2 posts · answered on MercurieVV’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  2. It makes a huge difference if you want to measure the internal nozzle diameter or the "typical" wear when using an abrasive filament.

    Marked as the answer · What is a good approach to develop a 'nozzle wear sensor'? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2024 · 2 posts · answered on Bob Ortiz’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  3. I have also been looking at getting into 3D printing and purchasing the Ender-3 V2. In my research, the biggest differences between the original and V2 are the following: Tempered carborundum glass bed HD color screen…

    Marked as the answer · Ender 3 V2 upgrades and addons · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2021 · 7 posts · answered on StealthRT’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  4. Try using 75 °C for the bed and 220 °C or highest recommended extrusion temperature for Sunlu PLA for the first layer, then lower the temperatures to 210 °C with 60 or 65 °C bed for subsequent layers.

    Marked as the answer · Stringing on first layer unless I squish it · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2021 · 2 posts · answered on Kris’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  5. Thank you for all your answers! After many failed benchies I fixed the problem now, however I don't know exactly what the problem was so I'll list everything I did: Dried my filament Recalibrated the Z-Offset Turned…

    Marked as the answer · Print not sticking to bed · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2021 · 4 posts · answered on Johannes’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  6. A little chip is fine, but I wouldn't print with that big of a crack. However , that doesn't mean you need to spend $80 on a new sheet of glass.

    Marked as the answer · Broken Print Bed · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2016 · 6 posts · answered on Arden Rasmussen’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  7. The G-code to delay is G4 . G4 P60000 will wait for one minute. The P is in milliseconds. Some firmware also accept a S Parameter that has the seconds. So, if supported, G4 S60 would do the same thing.

    Marked as the answer · Is there a G-code for waiting? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2022 · 5 posts · answered on Nir’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  8. Depending on thermistor type you can get values from around 1ohm/C to 0.01ohm/C so placing it on particulat place on heatbed (HB) could be very important.

    Marked as the answer · Heated bed thermistor placement · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2016 · 3 posts · answered on mhelvens’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  9. If your printer is a genuine Prusa i3, MK2 or MK2.5, it will have a PEI bed which requires no additional adhesive for a model to remain properly attached during the print.

    Marked as the answer · Print slipped away · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2018 · 2 posts · answered on james’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  10. There are a few options when adding an extra stepper motor, the usual upgrade is using a single stepper driver, driving 2 steppers either serial or parallel connected, or using 2 stepper drivers, this requires an extra…

    Marked as the answer · How to accurately synchronise dual Z-axis when two steppers motors are used? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2024 · 2 posts · answered on Bob Ortiz’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  11. The BLTouch now comes with a standard 5-pin connector. and that connector is supported on the board that seems to be shipping with Ender 3s these days, the Creality 4.2.2 board (Notice it's in the bottom right and says…

    Marked as the answer · Configuring Marlin 2.x with Ender 3 4.2.2 and BLTouch · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2023 · 3 posts · answered on deltree’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  12. This seems like Z homing issue. Sounds pretty frustrating, so I will try to give some hints, though I do not have Ender 3. Also maybe my few questions will be helpful.

    Marked as the answer · Z axis issue after upgrade from stock FW to Marlin 2.0.7.2 on Ender 3 Pro · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2021 · 2 posts · answered on Saf’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  13. octopus8 recommended doing a series of tests to determine the cause of the problem. I started with moving the bed by hand (remember to have machine off or choose "Disable steppers" from "Prepare" menu) and the movement…

    Marked as the answer · Y-axis movement error · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2021 · 2 posts · answered on brett stevens’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  14. Heating PLA even to 60°C will make it pliable and may affect dimensional accuracy; 100°C is likely to make that severe. Being stuck to the bed and thus constrained by it might help some, but I think it's a bad idea.

    Marked as the answer · Any possible issues with adding heat/cool down cycle in the end of print (PLA) · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2020 · 3 posts · answered on Leo’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  15. Fixed it finally, seems that the X axis was not level. Thank you to everyone who commented.

    Marked as the answer · Ender 3 Y Layer Shifting · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2020 · 2 posts · answered on Puyodead1’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  16. The skirt will only prime the nozzle, which is something really important for the first layer adhesion.

    Marked as the answer · How do skirts aid print bed adhesion? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2018 · 5 posts · answered on linuxdan’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  17. If you repeat a test and the problem occurs in the same location, then you probably have a problem with your bed or build plate. However, picture 3 suggests to me that you may have a partially clogged nozzle.

    Marked as the answer · Prusa I3 mk3 - Not your average inconsistent first layer · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2019 · 3 posts · answered on Paul V’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  18. After some "experimenting", I've managed to resolve the problem. There were several contributors to the problem I had: I had to replace the slicing software; My printer did not accept G-code from Cura perfectly, even…

    Marked as the answer · Stronger connection (thicker point) between two lines · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2022 · 3 posts · answered on user5214530’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  19. Aligning build surfaces isn't the main issue with 1 mm thick surfaces when aligning four 200 x 200 mm surfaces to make one 400 x 400 surface. The main issue is slight bucking at the seams from thermal mismatch.

    Marked as the answer · Has anyone applied four 200 x 200 mm PEI sheets to a 400 x 400 mm bed? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2020 · 3 posts · answered on Perry Webb’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  20. The problem was twofold: Lack of bed adhesion due to the small contact surface motion into the already printed objects.

    Marked as the answer · How to avoid collisions with already printed objects? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2019 · 3 posts · answered on Trish’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0