solved.

bed leveling keeps drifting

438 threads discussed this. Here is what worked. 468 ms

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  1. I found the issue. When the hotend and bed are at temps for PLA everything works fine but at temps for ABS the Z offset would get all messed up.

    Marked as the answer · Z axis at print is lower than when I home · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2017 · 3 posts · answered on Jeff’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  2. Resolution : After many trials and errors, I finally replaced the nozzle with one that that was not partially blocked by filament at its entrance.

    Marked as the answer · Ender 3 Distorted Calibration Cube · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2019 · 2 posts · answered on Dr. Mantis Tobbogan’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  3. Actually no. It will take slightly more for each addition. You also then have the point of failure, where one gets knocked off and ruins all the prints. The fastest way to print multiple objects is one at a time.

    Marked as the answer · Would 3D printing multiple copies at once saves time? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2020 · 8 posts · answered on Mehrad’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  4. It looks like the top of your model (The lowest part in the picture) is wider than the bottom (The part in contact with the build plate).

    Marked as the answer · How to keep model flat in resin printing? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2023 · 4 posts · answered on Pyy’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  5. Figured it out: human error. I will document the steps I took to resolve nonetheless. Originally was confused why the probe was failing to probe areas that were clearly in range of the probe head (left and bottom of the…

    Marked as the answer · Ender 3 CR Touch UBL Fails to Produce Viable Mesh · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2023 · 3 posts · answered on Unplanned Outage’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  6. Reading your question, it seems that the Prusa i3 mk3 (which I also have) is set up for z=0 to be the proper height. I do not use pronterface, so I don't know what special failures it may be causing.

    Marked as the answer · Z-axis Calibration Fault in Prusa i3 MK3S · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2023 · 2 posts · answered on citizenofearth’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  7. Your trouble lies within the presliced G-code: the temperatures are rather low for PLA and upping both by 10 degrees would be advisable: 200 °C for the Hotend 60 °C for the Bed Atop that, printing a raft for PLA is…

    Marked as the answer · Why did my print fall off its raft? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2019 · 3 posts · answered on Robert’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  8. Within reason, yes If you can't put the printer down 100 % even, that's ok. The most crucial thing is, that during the whole operation the resin level in the printer does never get over the edge of the print basin and…

    Marked as the answer · Does an uneven resin printer matter if the build plate is level with LCD? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2022 · 2 posts · answered on Lux Claridge’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  9. This design is NOT ready for prime time! Wedging the main column from the floor to ceiling is not adequate. Every structure has movement and changes size a bit as the seasons change.

    Marked as the answer · Suggestions on improving an elevated-bed project? · Woodworking Stack Exchange, 2019 · 2 posts · answered on dragomang87’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  10. Received and installed the WhamBam system, and it works great! Have been letting it heat to 60C, which I'm pretty sure is not making it all the way thru the magnet, flex steel plate, and the PEX surface, but parts are…

    Marked as the answer · Printing PLA on PEX surface - is heated bed needed? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2019 · 3 posts · answered on CrossRoads’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  11. It may be a case of the clutch still needing to be broke in and/or "bedded", but if it continues doing it after 500 to 1000 miles, I'd take it back to the dealership to have it looked over.

    Marked as the answer · Clutch Catch Point Car Shudder? · Motor Vehicle Maintenance & Repair, 2014 · 3 posts · answered on user4822’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  12. You can't do this entirely in start gcode templates, but you can do it by first adding a custom setting to the json file for your printer profile or the base fdmprinter.def.json file most profiles derive from.

    Marked as the answer · Math in Cura start G-code expressions? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2023 · 4 posts · answered on SF.’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  13. It wasn't advised to use the version 2.x because it was in development for 32-bit micro processors. Now that it has been released as the official version, you can use it for 8-bit micro processors.

    Marked as the answer · What precautions to take when flashing Marlin 2.0? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2020 · 2 posts · answered on Lux Claridge’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  14. In my experience a print speed of 50-70mm/s is ideal. Even if you set the speed to 150mm/s the print head still changes directions often and rarely will have enough time to accelerate from 0->150 before changing…

    Marked as the answer · Monoprice Select IIIP Plus - Best speed settings and speeding up prints · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2017 · 3 posts · answered on iAdjunct’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  15. While I first experienced layer shifts a couple times before upgrading, only while using extreme acceleration settings (3000 mm/s² is fairly extreme for moving the bed), their regular occurrance, which is near-constant…

    Marked as the answer · Ender 3 has developed a tendancy to skip Y steps · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2019 · 2 posts · answered on R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  16. PEEK (poly ether ether ketone) has a glass transition temperature of 145 ‎°C (293 °F). Melting temperature 345 ‎°C (653 °F) Nozzle temperature 370 - 410 ‎°C Heated bed 120 - 150 ‎°C Polycarbonate has a glass transition…

    Marked as the answer · Which 3D printer to print heat-resistant material? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2021 · 3 posts · answered on Carlo’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  17. Okay, there are a few potential issues here: 1: your belts are not tight enough. This will cause your bed to shake during printing, giving you wavy first layers. 2: your filament is bad.

    Marked as the answer · The bottom of the printed objects has waves after replacing the nozzle · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2021 · 4 posts · answered on Coder_fox’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  18. I found the solution. Controller board was broken, I had to order a new one.

    Marked as the answer · Thermal Runaway E1 · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2020 · 2 posts · answered on Ramblin' Sid Rumpo’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  19. After storage you can check the following things before taking the machine into operation again: Are all cables intact?

    Marked as the answer · What should I pay attention to after taking a 3d printer from extended storage · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2016 · 3 posts · answered on Elva’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  20. I think this is resolved. After looking at every conceivable source of over-extrusion and coming up negative, R..

    Marked as the answer · Expansion in bottom skin after first layer · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2021 · 5 posts · answered on Robert’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0