solved.

bed leveling keeps drifting

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  1. Due to the advice from @0scar i formulate my answer in the comments as a proper answer ;) Check the nozzle, if it is in shape and good condition.

    Marked as the answer · Line width changes depending on the direction the print head moves · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2018 · 3 posts · answered on iFreilicht’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  2. The (equidistant) lines at distance from the print object is called the "skirt", the skirt is an option found under the "Build Plate Adhesion" options in your slicer.

    Marked as the answer · What's the purpose of the "outlines" around prints? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2020 · 3 posts · answered on KlaymenDK’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  3. I don't think the sound is coming from nuts and springs. I can think of 3 possible sources.

    Marked as the answer · Knocking/Clicking sound when Y-Carriage passas trough the middle of rods · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2017 · 2 posts · answered on WDR’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  4. The extrusions look great to me, it just appears to me the nozzle is starting too far from the bed. If you go in to your slicer and subtract 0.1 to 0.3 mm or so from the Z-offset that might fix your issues.

    Marked as the answer · Need help printing a quality first layer, but having adhesion and fill issues · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2021 · 3 posts · answered on Reagan’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  5. The second placement is a better choice from an overall standpoint. In the vertical placement, adhesion is going to be more critical, although Prusa printers have good bonding for PLA and ABS, from my direct experience.

    Marked as the answer · Bed surface stability vs head movement efficiency question · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2021 · 4 posts · answered on Allan Xu’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  6. The warping and lifting is caused by insufficient adhesion. This can be caused by an incorrect first layer (it is difficult to see the raft, but generally, rafts have no solid bottom, so less adhesion as there is less…

    Marked as the answer · What's causing my PLA prints to lift like this? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2021 · 6 posts · answered on Zeiss Ikon’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  7. Personally, I would use my drill press. The bed will tilt to any angle and then you just clamp the board to the bed. You would need a piece of waste wood under the board so not to put the bit into the metal bed.

    Marked as the answer · Best method for drilling a larger diameter hole at an angle · Woodworking Stack Exchange, 2016 · 8 posts · answered on James’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  8. Z-offset persitently stored in memory? Maybe the value of -2.97 for the Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER is retained in the EEPROM memory when you upload new firmware.

    Marked as the answer · Specifying Z offset in Marlin firmware · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2025 · 3 posts · answered on Rosalie W’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  9. It appears the heatbreak of my E3D nozzle had worked itself loose from the heatsink, allowing the nozzle to wobble around a bit.

    Marked as the answer · What can cause a sudden and dramatic loss in the inter-layer registration of my prints? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2016 · 5 posts · answered on Tom van der Zanden’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  10. The issue was that the X-axis belt was super loose, figured it after someone pointed it out on Reddit :

    Marked as the answer · Prints have over extrusion only during diagonals · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2021 · 2 posts · answered on Ankit Kumar’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  11. In Cura (and Slic3r), you can 100% customize what the printer does before printing your actual model through custom start/end g-code .

    Marked as the answer · How to configure Cura to run the Z probe before heating · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2021 · 3 posts · answered on Nir’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  12. There is no such thing as a software endstop for the 3D printer. When you power a printer the print head can be located at every X, Y, Z position (usually, Z is at the print height of your last print, X is at the…

    Marked as the answer · Anet A6 Z-axis min endstop not triggering · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2018 · 3 posts · answered on seraphina’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  13. What I have done: Using lowest hotend temperature 170 °C Using highest hotend temperature 220 °C No wobble in extruder (x-axis) No wobble in gantry (x-axis) No wobble in bed (y-axis) No wobble in z-rod (z-axis) Bed…

    Marked as the answer · Layer Shifting When Printing Tall Prints (Consistent Per-Model) · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2021 · 5 posts · answered on notalentgeek’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  14. A .hex file is of no use to you, because it consists of compiled firmware which is very difficult to edit. You need to go to Prusa's GitHub and download the source code .

    Marked as the answer · How to re-program Prusa firmware to accept a taller Z axis? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2018 · 2 posts · answered on Kryss’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  15. TL;DR Yes, a 2 kΩ resistor is sufficient to limit the current to about 12 mA through the optocoupler.

    Marked as the answer · Hooking up an optocoupler in a 24V Machine, is a 2 kOhm resistor sufficient? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2019 · 2 posts · answered on der-andyman’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  16. In cura (if you are not in the quick print mode) you can dine the diameter of your filament. Setting the filament diameter to a smaller value will give you more plastic coming out of the nozzle.

    Marked as the answer · How do I compensate in cura for thinner filament? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2016 · 2 posts · answered on stu’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  17. No chipping at all is an unrealistic expectation, but obviously there are paints that are harder-wearing than others.

    Marked as the answer · Painting a kid's bed frame · Woodworking Stack Exchange, 2016 · 2 posts · answered on mmathis’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  18. Hi Thanks for all the suggestions. I've been experimenting with various prints using some of the different settings and it appears that I needed to increase the initial layer height.

    Marked as the answer · First layers going funny · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2022 · 5 posts · answered on rohtua’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  19. This answer goes into the reliability aspects of the often-discussed " Touch sensors " within the 3D printing community based on experience with the BLTouch and the 3D Touch..

    Marked as the answer · What's the accuracy and reliability difference between BLTouch, CRTouch and 3D touch? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2023 · 3 posts · answered on Bob Ortiz’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  20. I started this as a comment but it couldn't fit. If it isn't a true answer and should be removed, I understand. You suggest in your question that perhaps the defect could be caused by a problem in the Z-axis lead screw.

    Marked as the answer · Why am I getting Z banding/shifted layer on a single layer? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2019 · 2 posts · answered on DWO’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0