solved.

bed leveling keeps drifting

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  1. It ended up being something with the printer, I powered it down, let it set a few minutes and then powered it up and it printed correctly.

    Marked as the answer · Ender 3 Pro not interpreting G-code correctly? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2020 · 2 posts · answered on Rick’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  2. Your question is a little hard to pin down, but I'll try to help anyway. :-) Z-Offset: It appears you may be misunderstanding the way z-offset is supposed to work especially when it comes to Marlin setup and routine bed…

    Marked as the answer · Z offset incorrect · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2016 · 2 posts · answered on MOTIVECODEX’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  3. You can trick the printer into applying an offset using the G92 command: First, we move the nozzle to Z=0 . Next, through the G92 command, we tell the printer to, from now on, treat the current position as Z=0.1 .

    Marked as the answer · Cura: set z-offset · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2018 · 4 posts · answered on Thomas S.’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  4. All the Prusa-based designs I've seen have only one end stop. While you are correct that it's theoretically possible for the two Z-drives to get out of sync, it's very unlikely in practice (barring serious friction…

    Marked as the answer · Alignment of dual Z-axis steppers · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2016 · 2 posts · answered on Sean Houlihane’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  5. I own the Ender 3, and it runs on 24V, as this photo of the power supply shows: From power supply to the board, it uses a 2-wire line connected with a XT60 plug/jack that is common on RC cars: The board itself is a…

    Marked as the answer · What are the specifications of the dual voltage controller of the Ender 3/CR-10? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2018 · 3 posts · answered on Greenonline’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  6. I am still somewhat of a noob, but I have heard that your problem may be because the extruder is not getting the filament out fast enough. You are trying to extrude filament before it is sufficiently fluid.

    Marked as the answer · Ender 3 Extruder Speed / Upgrade · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2020 · 3 posts · answered on Tristan Maxson’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  7. You can, in most slicers, set a separate extrusion multiplier for the first layer. This doesn't appear to be possible in slic3r, but there are a couple of ways to work around this: Change the Z offset (either in…

    Marked as the answer · First (bottom) layer has gaps · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2016 · 2 posts · answered on vwegert’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  8. After much trial and error, I think I finally figured out the solution. Even though I could get better prints by tweaking with the temperatures, I could never totally eliminate the problem.

    Marked as the answer · First 3 mm prints poorly, then fine after that · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2020 · 10 posts · answered on Steve In CO’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  9. From this source you can read: The source also answers the use of M420 S1 : So, if you're not using a G29 in your start code you must use the G-code M420 S1 to enable the stored mesh from memory.

    Marked as the answer · Saving BL Touch settings · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2019 · 2 posts · answered on Steve061’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  10. I believe the little experiment made by E3D - the same link you provide - answers your question very well. Several points about wear can be found in this article.

    Marked as the answer · How to identify nozzle wear? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2019 · 6 posts · answered on TheNewHobbyist’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  11. Input shaping in 3D printers is typically implemented prior to the actual printing operation, not in real-time.

    Marked as the answer · Does an accelerometer in a Marlin-based Input Shaping setup compensate in real-time (during print) for vibration? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2023 · 2 posts · answered on Bob Ortiz’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  12. Adding 20mm mouse ears was sufficient to resolve the problem using the original extrusion / heatbed settings.

    Marked as the answer · Best way to fix ABS corner curling on enclosed Prusa style printer with PEI heatbed? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2019 · 3 posts · answered on madscientist159’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  13. One hundred percent infill is not necessarily stronger than lower values. By having such a high infill figure, the forces on the model as it cools are magnified and not in a particularly good manner.

    Marked as the answer · Ender-3 Pro - PLA mid-layer warping (layer separation) - salvageable? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2020 · 3 posts · answered on Stratubas’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  14. The picture looks like classic Cura misbehavior - it's skipping retractions that need to happen because it's done "too many" already.

    Marked as the answer · Fixing stringing within <80% flow print out is weak · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2021 · 2 posts · answered on cybernard’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  15. If the probe works, but not on auto homing, it could be that the Z endstop/probe wires are incorrectly wired.

    Marked as the answer · Problem with Creality v1.1.4 (Ender 3 Pro) and BLTOUCH v3.0 (removed C7 capacitor) · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2020 · 2 posts · answered on Mr.Code’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  16. To correct x-y axis alignment to 90 degrees: Loosen the nuts on the two threaded rods at one end and in the middle. Lower the Z-axis to its lowest level.

    Marked as the answer · Anet A8 - X and Y axis not square - how to fix? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2018 · 3 posts · answered on DarkTerritory’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  17. I think you would have to rewrite the code specifically for the surface you want to print on, so the printer recognizes the base is not flat.

    Marked as the answer · Inclined plane movement of spinneret · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2021 · 2 posts · answered on Narasimham’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  18. So the issues with the digital display values, was caused by the X-axis binding up and not advancing.

    Marked as the answer · Ender 3 X-axis values are not correct · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2019 · 2 posts · answered on chewpoclypse’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  19. Ghosting is caused by differential movement between the bed and the head when the head undergoes acceleration. The forces add energy to a resonance in that differential vibration mode.

    Marked as the answer · Fix ghosting problem (damping versus bolting printer to a desk) · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2021 · 8 posts · answered on user11082’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  20. I've not done much miniatures printing, but I have the same printer and I happen to have the exact same filament loaded.

    Marked as the answer · Why are my prints so defective? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2017 · 3 posts · answered on LegendaryDude’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0