solved.

bed leveling keeps drifting

994 threads discussed this. Here is what worked. 459 ms

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  1. You have a too thick layer: to get straight lines, the plastic has to be squished together to some degree as it is pushed out of the nozzle. The result is a shape similar to a circle with the top and bottom cut.

    Marked as the answer · Wavy lines on 1st layer only · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2020 · 3 posts · answered on Perry Webb’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  2. This is a "No" and "Yes" answer, it depends on the version of Cura you are using! No , there are no options available to set the brim to some of the parts in Ultimaker Cura (at the time of writing this answer, pre Cura…

    Marked as the answer · Setting up a brim/raft for only a portion of the overall print · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2021 · 4 posts · answered on Lux Claridge’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  3. For anyone who has this problem in the future my solution was to loosen the screw on top of the touch just a little bit

    Marked as the answer · Problem with BLTouch on Ender 3 Pro · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2025 · 3 posts · answered on scooter 505’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  4. I have printed kilometers of PETG and found the sweet-spot for my brand to be 240 °C for the hotend and 70 °C for the build plate (for my Ultimaker 3 that is, the extruder temp is 5 °C higher for my home build HyperCube…

    Marked as the answer · PETG filament doesn't stick reliably to fake Buildtak surface · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2018 · 3 posts · answered on ifconfig’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  5. I switched to different firmware (the latest Marlin), now the problem has been resolved. So it seems to me that those random movements are not in fact normal, but a flaw in the firmware.

    Marked as the answer · Nozzle always "randomly" moves to 0 during print, then resumes · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2021 · 5 posts · answered on Daniël van den Berg’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  6. Usually you install the sensor once and keep it unchanged for years. Nozzle, though, is an element people, depending on printer usage, replace semi-frequently and the Z offset will change with different nozzles…

    Marked as the answer · Why is the Z probe offset easily adjustable in the printer UI, but not the X/Y probe offset? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2023 · 2 posts · answered on Octanum’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  7. It turns out the extruder was slipping, but not due to a nozzle or Bowden tube pressure issue.

    Marked as the answer · Patterned Under-Extrusion on Ender 3 Pro · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2021 · 3 posts · answered on tjcaul’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  8. My best guess based on the answers and comments so far is that there is a minor firmware bug and some poorly initialised state.

    Marked as the answer · Lack of isolation between axes · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2017 · 4 posts · answered on Sean Houlihane’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  9. I have not given up yet! And I figured it out, I think. I tried many things, dried the spool at 60C for an hour, Simplifiy3D's slicer, but eventually playing around I found a setting that resulting in no warping during…

    Marked as the answer · TPE warping problems · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2020 · 3 posts · answered on Jeroen3’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  10. Based on what I've learned over 8 months of printing: What matters the most is getting a very accurate zero relative to the bed surface. An offset of 30 or 40 microns can strongly affect first-layer adhesion.

    Marked as the answer · Would using a leadscrew with 1 or 2 mm lead, en lieu of 8 mm, result in a better printer? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2018 · 4 posts · answered on Greenonline’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  11. Both diagrams are exactly the same, the difference is the +5 V that is not connected on the bottom diagram (displayed in white, labelled "not used"), but since your endstops do not have a +5 V pin in the socket (only…

    Marked as the answer · How to wire an LJ18A3-8-Z/BX sensor with an optocoupler to a stock Ender 3? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2020 · 2 posts · answered on super autismo’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  12. These are really two separate things. The finish is about aesthetics — how do you think it makes the wood look? So nobody can answer that for you.

    Marked as the answer · Is Rubio Monocoat appropriate on red oak furniture? · Woodworking Stack Exchange, 2019 · 2 posts · answered on Jon Dosmann’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  13. Your nozzle is too far from the build plate. You should make some changes to bring the nozzle closer to the build plate for the first layer.

    Marked as the answer · Prusa i3 - First layer does not stick and looks jagged · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2017 · 2 posts · answered on Chris’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  14. Have you seen question 3D Printed Sphere, How to Remove Roughness ? Although the question is centered around the roughness, not the supports, the answers hint to a solution for this question.

    Marked as the answer · Help With Bottom of Sphere Coming off With Supports · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2024 · 2 posts · answered on Argentum’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  15. Here is the mental framework that I use to reason about PETG: In a nutshell you want to avoid nozzle contact .

    Marked as the answer · PETG nozzle clearance and extrusion multiplier · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2020 · 4 posts · answered on Fredo Corleone’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  16. Of course, I don't know what kind of tapes you have. My experience with blue tapes is, that they seem in general softer and "nicer" than white tapes.

    Marked as the answer · Why does the painters tape have to be blue? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2019 · 5 posts · answered on Greenonline’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  17. I finally reached out to anycubic and their tech support answered and was awesome! They had me update the firmware, tighten the fep film more ( instead of using the small lever I used the big lever this time), then…

    Marked as the answer · Photon S DLP first layers adhere but support will not · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2020 · 2 posts · answered on Legen Diary’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  18. I had similar issues during the past few days. My first 3~5 layers overlapped. I ended up with figuring out it was the screws to mount Z stepper became loose and the stepper shifted itself downwards instead shifting up…

    Marked as the answer · Bottom Layer Compression (over extrusion) - Can't get rid of it · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2021 · 6 posts · answered on obious’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  19. Let's see what kind of errors I see (accumulated from what I commented): Underextrusion The legs seem rather underextruded.

    Marked as the answer · Gaps/Holes in the 3D Print walls · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2020 · 2 posts · answered on Andras M’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  20. Ok so I did a bit of testing with the wiring and it turns out I just had the 3DTouch in the Z- socket instead of Z+ :-) . Another idiot mistake from me!

    Marked as the answer · Artillery Sidewinder X1 3DTouch not working · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2020 · 2 posts · answered on Artichoke’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0