bed leveling keeps drifting
994 threads discussed this. Here is what worked. 442 ms
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Problem is solved, though I still don't know how to test the BLTouch. I had reversed the power connection (black and white wires) at the connection to the extension cable.
Marked as the answer · How can I tell if BLTouch is triggering? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2025 · 3 posts · answered on fectin’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0
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I changed from "Simple" mode to "Advanced" mode, and the config imported fine. Though, I don't think it was my most recent config. C'est la software! Also, I switched to Cura after this.
Marked as the answer · Why do I have problems trying to get Slic3r to load a config file? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2018 · 2 posts · answered on YetAnotherRandomUser’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0
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The latest update to Cura (3.6.0 at time of writing) added a printer configuration specifically for the Ender 3.
Marked as the answer · Adding additional extrusion to a raft (raft with a skirt?) · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2018 · 4 posts · answered on iCollect.it Ltd’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0
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The following is a compilation of the input from a number of sources. Linear rails in general are mechanical components that - when designing equipment - offer great flexibility.
Marked as the answer · Why all the excitement about linear rails? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2018 · 3 posts · answered on mac’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0
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This was a mistake. I misremembered the model and bought a nozzle for a Neptune 4 Pro, instead of a Neptune 3 Pro model. The resulting nozzle was too long and would not fit in the printer.
Marked as the answer · Is my new nozzle too long? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2025 · 3 posts · answered on mechricson’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0
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Sounds like one end or the other in your stepper cable is not seated correctly or has shaken loose there are 4 wires if even one doesn't make proper contact you will get a shaking back and forth almost like a hard…
Marked as the answer · Ender 3 Pro extruder drive rocking back and forth · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2019 · 2 posts · answered on Daniel Bozarth’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0
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The thump and the appearance of the print are indications of underextrusion. Tracking the source of this failure can be challenging, especially considering how many factors you've included in your question.
Marked as the answer · My prints have started to turn to mush at a certain Z height · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2023 · 2 posts · answered on FenFox’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0
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This is not an easy one to solve, the firmware of the printer should be keeping the printer at a certain temperature depending on the temperature setting and the current value.
Marked as the answer · Nozzle heats up past the setpoint and increases · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2018 · 3 posts · answered on Mathieu VIALES’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0
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Not surprisingly, your question is a difficult one to pin down in a precise manner. I'm going to pull one line from your post as the focus for my answer.
Marked as the answer · What should I consider before buying a 3D printer? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2017 · 2 posts · answered on Pyro’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0
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A planer sled is a flat, rigid box or piece of material that supports your workpiece and holds it in a specific orientation as it passes through a thickness planer.
Marked as the answer · What is a planer sled and how do you use it? · Woodworking Stack Exchange, 2015 · 3 posts · answered on Daniel B.’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0
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This is not a good idea. Both filaments have different melting points, that of ABS being much higher than that of PLA. To melt the ABS you have to heat the plastic to the point where the PLA starts to degrade.
Marked as the answer · Can I mix ABS and PLA when recycling filament? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2021 · 7 posts · answered on HDE 226868’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0
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8 mm rods and 6 mm GT2 belts are generally accepted as a good tradeoff between price and performance, an exact calculation is possible but might not be very relevant if another part is flexing.
Marked as the answer · Sizing belts and rods for a Cartesian printer · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2021 · 3 posts · answered on blihp’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0
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Sounds like you're a good candidate for investing in a set of push blocks. An example is below.
Marked as the answer · Jointing a 1.5"x1.5"x25" stock on a benchtop power jointer/planer · Woodworking Stack Exchange, 2015 · 2 posts · answered on OKAN’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0
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I am going to answer this as someone who actually did rework their Prusa i3 fleabay clone to use leadscrews for all axes.
Marked as the answer · Are there practical reasons to NOT use a stepper motor with lead screw for the X and or Y axes? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2019 · 5 posts · answered on Mikel F’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0
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Well, in my particular case, it helps to have the X and Y control (motor and endstop switch) plugged in to the correct ports :-( . That took care of the X vs. Y orientation problem.
Marked as the answer · How to map Cura printspace to Prusa I3 printspace · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2016 · 2 posts · answered on Carl Witthoft’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0
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This looks like a an extruder PID tunning issue. In Marlin ( I assume this printer use Marlin) there is a auto-tune command for the temperature PID (M303) you can check this page…
Marked as the answer · Bad print quality, Temperature Fluctuates about +/- 8 degrees · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2023 · 2 posts · answered on Kenny Wyland’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0
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What you ask may be easier than you think. The slicing software is unimportant, generally speaking. Consider especially that your requirements fit the solution spot on. Take a look at this thingiverse snowman.
Marked as the answer · How to print a two color part with only one extruder · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2017 · 2 posts · answered on Joe Blow’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0
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I doubt you'd need to order a replacement top, no matter how bad the rust seems to you compared to the pristine surface around it.
Marked as the answer · Recovering from a rusted table saw top -- and protecting it in future · Woodworking Stack Exchange, 2016 · 4 posts · answered on keshlam’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0
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I am not entirely familiar with the ANET A8 electronics, but it's very unlikely it's any different from how any other mainboard works, so any instructions that work for RAMPS should work for your board as well.
Marked as the answer · Connecting an inductive sensor to the Anet A8 · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2017 · 4 posts · answered on Onno’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0
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Cura option Initial Layer Width will cause lines to be further apart or closer together, based on the value you set with respect to the default.
Marked as the answer · What's the difference between "Initial Layer Width" and "Initial Layer Flow" in Cura? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2022 · 3 posts · answered on Christoph’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0