solved.

first layer not sticking to the bed

256 threads discussed this. Here is what worked. 479 ms

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  1. Eureka! All of the other answers and suggestions on this post were all very helpful, and would likely be the right answers 90+% of the time, but they didn't give me any relief.

    Marked as the answer · Can't get print to stick, no matter what I try · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2017 · 7 posts · answered on Kenny Wyland’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  2. The wavy lay down on the first layer usually indicates one of two problems: The first layer is badly calibrated (too much distance, laying down in waves or too little, squeezing out in waves).

    Marked as the answer · What cause the pattern in a large area? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2022 · 2 posts · answered on aleung’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  3. Your bed is too low - raise it by turning the knobs underneath. The first layer should not look like strings sitting on the bed as per your photo.

    Marked as the answer · Why does the first layer only adhere to bed if I increase the temperature by 10 °C and drop the speed by 75 % · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2022 · 4 posts · answered on Aaargh Zombies’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  4. this is a common case in my TT.... Please check the y-carriage wheels - on the 2040 and 2020 profile.

    Marked as the answer · First layer height problem after changing nozzle · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2018 · 2 posts · answered on mithras’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  5. I used to have the exact same issue with my Ender 3. I fixed it by applying some glue to the plate before it started printing; the glue makes the filament stick and not drag behind the toolhead without adhering.

    Marked as the answer · Ender 3 V2 Neo with PLA warping and not sticking on one area · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2024 · 3 posts · answered on dsw’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  6. Your nozzle is very much too high to properly print just about any filament. If the filament sticks to the nozzle after it is positioned closer to the bed, you have two problems.

    Marked as the answer · No way to stick PETG on buildplate · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2022 · 4 posts · answered on Mark’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  7. You can clearly print but there are also some problems it seems. To see if you're about okay when it comes to leveling, I recommend to activate the 'skirt' in your slicer soft.

    Marked as the answer · Why some corners aren't sticked well? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2017 · 3 posts · answered on WDR’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  8. Using automatic bed leveling assists you in getting the print to stick better to the build platform as a result of the print head following the non-uniform geometry or tilt of the build plate. In, e.g.

    Marked as the answer · Does auto leveling result in sheared prints? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2018 · 2 posts · answered on Horitsu’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  9. I have no experience with your printer model nor with protopasta conductive PLA but since your problem is "too much adhesion" I would simply suggest to follow in reverse all the usual advices on how to make the first…

    Marked as the answer · Removing protopasta conductive PLA skirt from a bed · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2018 · 4 posts · answered on K Mmmm’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  10. No , the bed does not look too close to the nozzle , it could well be that it is too far from the nozzle. However, the brim looks okay, but the method you follow is questionable.

    Marked as the answer · Bed too close to nozzle? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2019 · 4 posts · answered on Lux Claridge’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  11. You need to level you bed. Thin prints happen when the extruder is too low and is printing too close to the bed.

    Marked as the answer · Issue with 3D printer making super thin layers · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2020 · 3 posts · answered on Sapphethaz’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  12. Had this problem on my second print. The nozzle was too close to the bed. The only way I got it all off was to heat the bed. Then the PLA became a bit softer and came off pretty fast.

    Marked as the answer · The filament is almost impossible to remove · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2020 · 3 posts · answered on asduskun’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  13. Layer shifting is a result of the use of open-loop control systems. This means that the printer just instructs the head to go to certain positions without checking that it actually did arrive at that position.

    Marked as the answer · Layer shifting on product printing after raft support structure · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2018 · 3 posts · answered on David Gebbett’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  14. You cannot distinguish wrong flow from wrong Z offset in just the first layer. You need more layers to distinguish. Fortunately, it looks like you've already done that.

    Marked as the answer · First layer flow rate too low or global nozzle Z distance too large? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2024 · 2 posts · answered on sanjihan’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  15. Update and close I have changed the coupler on the z axis and levelled the bed put a print on to test, skirt and first layer look good so I think we can call this one closed and thank you very much for your comments.

    Marked as the answer · Layer 1 won't adhere anymore · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2019 · 5 posts · answered on ventis’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  16. I have seen this a lot of times on my tronXY-X1 with an e3d-v6 via Bowden tube. It is not related to retraction but a different settin: Your first layer is set too thin or not leveled to the right height.

    Marked as the answer · Odd dotting when printing a line · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2020 · 3 posts · answered on Lux Claridge’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  17. Some things I've tried that have helped: Lay down a layer of masking tape. Most people who do this use blue painter's tape.

    Marked as the answer · My heated glass print bed keeps chipping and cracking. How can I prevent this? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2019 · 6 posts · answered on Marsh’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  18. This sounds like nothing but a bed leveling (distance from nozzle to bed) problem, though you may have introduced other problems disassembling the hotend.

    Marked as the answer · Can't print anything! Is this heat creep? (Detailed explanation & Photo) · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2021 · 2 posts · answered on Yüksel Tolun’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  19. Thank you for all your answers! After many failed benchies I fixed the problem now, however I don't know exactly what the problem was so I'll list everything I did: Dried my filament Recalibrated the Z-Offset Turned…

    Marked as the answer · Print not sticking to bed · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2021 · 4 posts · answered on Johannes’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  20. There are three reasons (I can think of): A large problem you'd face with allowing the bed to cool after first layer is you stand the chance of losing adhesion after it cools. When you heat the bed, it expands somewhat.

    Marked as the answer · Why keep the bed heated after initial layer(s) with PLA (or PETG)? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2023 · 7 posts · answered on Oliver Giesen’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0