solved.

bed leveling keeps drifting

438 threads discussed this. Here is what worked. 2033 ms

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  1. I sounds like you are on the edge of almost heat creep if you start printing before the extruder cools off. See if letting the extruder cool down to near room temperature solves the problem.

    Marked as the answer · What makes a new nozzle clog before I can finish the print? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2021 · 2 posts · answered on Zeiss Ikon’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  2. Waves in printed surfaces with FFF are observed at either the bottom layer (common) or the top layer (less common).

    Marked as the answer · Prusa i3 Mk3 - Top layer wrinkles (not on buildplate) · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2019 · 3 posts · answered on Paul V’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  3. Were your brakes silent before this work was performed? Some brake noise is considered normal. Different driving conditions can affect brake noise, including severe braking, dusty or sandy conditions,even humidity.

    Marked as the answer · why are new brakes squeaking? · Motor Vehicle Maintenance & Repair, 2015 · 3 posts · answered on Robert S. Barnes’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  4. Ultem 9085, the most common ultem resin used for AM, is a blend of PEI-PC, as seen here https://www.sabic-ip.com/gepapp/Plastics/servlet/ProductsAndServices/Product/series?sltPrdline=ULTEM&sltPrdseries=Aerospace%20and%20…

    Marked as the answer · What is PEI+PC 3D Print material? ISS 3D Print Contest · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2016 · 4 posts · answered on 3dalliance’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  5. Looking at your prints, the problem is possibly related to the fade out height of the BLTouch functionality.

    Marked as the answer · Creality Ender 3 Pro - Z travel issue with TH3D firmware · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2022 · 3 posts · answered on Lewis’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  6. I think the reason why the large cylinder is breaking much easier than the smokestack would is because of leverage. If you print the same cylinder at a much smaller scale it might be more difficult to break it.

    Marked as the answer · How do you assure that you print layers that bond correctly? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2019 · 5 posts · answered on Valmond’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  7. You are describing precisely how the crash detection should work on the Prusa Mk3, so it is doing exactly what it should do.

    Marked as the answer · Does Octoprint stop printing on Crash Detection? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2018 · 2 posts · answered on Mark Harrison’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  8. In an ideal world, you will not need to change this parameter once it is properly calibrated. In a non-ideal world, some filament may be out-of-spec, and some filament may slip when it passes through the extruder.

    Marked as the answer · Why and how am I supposed to change the extrusion multiplier? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2019 · 2 posts · answered on FarO’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  9. These symptoms are generally caused by friction in the extrusion path. First, you should make sure the spool of filament can unspool freely.

    Marked as the answer · Extruder drive cog slipping on filament · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2018 · 3 posts · answered on clem’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  10. Indeed, even belt tension is important , what helped me enormously to set the same tension in the belts on my self build CoreXY is a tool like this : Furthermore, be sure that you do not have any binding on the Y…

    Marked as the answer · CoreXY Calibration Issue · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2018 · 3 posts · answered on Perplexed Dipole’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  11. I thought I might as well convert my Comment above seeing as nobody else posted an Answer specifying the exact bit type.

    Marked as the answer · What drill bit should be used for cutting steel · Woodworking Stack Exchange, 2016 · 3 posts · answered on Ljk2000’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  12. This is the Z-seam, or just "seam". It's a consequence of the fact that the extrusion of each layer has to start and stop at some point rather than being a continuous path for the whole print (like it would be in "vase…

    Marked as the answer · A vertical scar on the print surface, what is the name of this problem? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2023 · 3 posts · answered on tmighty’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  13. Shifts in a diagonal direction in CoreXY indicate loss of synch between the two belts. If it's the belt very loose skipping, you may not hear much but such a loose belt is easy to notice.

    Marked as the answer · Layer Shift with a new CoreXY printer · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2020 · 2 posts · answered on xryl669’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  14. Perform PID calibration procedure for hotend using G-code 'M303' with nozzle fans turned off completely. You may use detailed guidelines from AK Eric's blog , RepRap wiki or 3DMaker Engineering .

    Marked as the answer · CR6-SE fails to heat hotend to set point · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2021 · 3 posts · answered on bigpow’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  15. You are lowering temperature and increase the flow at the same time - which is contradictory (filament is less runny, but you pump more of it). Though 195 °C seems to be very safe for printing PLA at 40 mm/s.

    Marked as the answer · Top layer and walls have gaps even with 120 % flow (Cura) · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2021 · 2 posts · answered on Afron Orana’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  16. To answer your question directly, this action ( Click to resume... ) is triggered by a buffer overflow of the Marlin firmware that is caused by the repetitive sending of M105 command by Ultimaker Cura (without checking…

    Marked as the answer · What triggers Marlin's "Click to resume..."? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2018 · 5 posts · answered on Till B’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  17. It's not you - it's the printer! The M3D Micro is not a very sturdy setup. The X-axis is a single pair of thin rods, hung up on a pair of similarly thin rods in Y and mounted on 3 very thin pillars in Z.

    Marked as the answer · What am I doing wrong with my M3D Micro? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2021 · 2 posts · answered on Dcybroz’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  18. Welcome to the fantastic, sometimes frustrating but most often glorious world of 3D printing David! :) Your question is really very very broad, but here's my contribution to make your first steps a success.

    Marked as the answer · 3D printing references for beginners · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2018 · 3 posts · answered on David Reed’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  19. With a replaced Bowden tube and better PLA, the herringbone is a little better, and the layering on the sides is more regular, but still there.

    Marked as the answer · Are these normal surfaces from an Ender 3 Pro with PLA? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2021 · 3 posts · answered on Marc Rochkind’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  20. Now that you are using Ultimaker Cura, the default (probably hidden) parameter Z Seam Alignment is set at Sharpest Corner , so it will always start in a sharp corner.

    Marked as the answer · Infill failure at the far corner of two different prints · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2018 · 2 posts · answered on Kevin’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0