solved.

first layer not sticking to the bed

124 threads discussed this. Here is what worked. 116 ms

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  1. Likely the extruder gear is slipping on the filament. The tension arm may be weak or broken. It's also possible that there's a partial clog.

    Marked as the answer · Why are the circular parts of this print not sticking to the raft properly · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2023 · 2 posts · answered on Matthew Dresser’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  2. It looks like your nozzle is a little too close to the bed, if there is not enough space, you can see through the layer and pressure can build up and ooze out when there is a little more room in a different location (if…

    Marked as the answer · Help With PLA settings · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2021 · 3 posts · answered on hugmungus’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  3. I have printed kilometers of PETG and found the sweet-spot for my brand to be 240 °C for the hotend and 70 °C for the build plate (for my Ultimaker 3 that is, the extruder temp is 5 °C higher for my home build HyperCube…

    Marked as the answer · PETG filament doesn't stick reliably to fake Buildtak surface · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2018 · 3 posts · answered on ifconfig’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  4. First of all, thanks for all the help, it really is a nice community! But none of them actually helped and I finally find out what to actually do to fix the problem so here it goes: Extruder temperature didn't change…

    Marked as the answer · What is causing 'droplets' on first layer? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2018 · 3 posts · answered on Valmond’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  5. I would try two things you didn't mention; a bed leveling (this looks a little close) and an e-stepper calibration.

    Marked as the answer · Filament spreading apart and stringy on first layer · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2020 · 2 posts · answered on Chris’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  6. It appears that there are several issues with the prints. First layer too far from bed The picture showing the bottom of the print clearly shows the deposited lines and gaps in between the lines.

    Marked as the answer · Print quality problem with M3D FDM printer · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2018 · 2 posts · answered on ki.c’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  7. You can, in most slicers, set a separate extrusion multiplier for the first layer. This doesn't appear to be possible in slic3r, but there are a couple of ways to work around this: Change the Z offset (either in…

    Marked as the answer · First (bottom) layer has gaps · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2016 · 2 posts · answered on vwegert’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  8. If you repeat a test and the problem occurs in the same location, then you probably have a problem with your bed or build plate. However, picture 3 suggests to me that you may have a partially clogged nozzle.

    Marked as the answer · Prusa I3 mk3 - Not your average inconsistent first layer · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2019 · 3 posts · answered on Paul V’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  9. The warping and lifting is caused by insufficient adhesion. This can be caused by an incorrect first layer (it is difficult to see the raft, but generally, rafts have no solid bottom, so less adhesion as there is less…

    Marked as the answer · What's causing my PLA prints to lift like this? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2021 · 6 posts · answered on Zeiss Ikon’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  10. For ABS it will warp unless you build a heat chamber. That said the tricks to reduce warping come down to: Material, i.e.

    Marked as the answer · 3D prints keep suffering from warping · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2017 · 5 posts · answered on Johnson Zhou’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  11. From your images can be seen that: Your nozzle is too far from the bed (the lines are not touching), so you either need to level with a less thick paper or allow for more friction between the paper and the nozzle.

    Marked as the answer · Problem printing circles/holes on Anycubic I3 mega · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2020 · 2 posts · answered on fesp’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  12. After some "experimenting", I've managed to resolve the problem. There were several contributors to the problem I had: I had to replace the slicing software; My printer did not accept G-code from Cura perfectly, even…

    Marked as the answer · Stronger connection (thicker point) between two lines · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2022 · 3 posts · answered on user5214530’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  13. It might be worth a try to manually kick the flow rate setting up 5-10 % and temperature about 5 °C for the first layer after the filament change, then returning to the original settings.

    Marked as the answer · What techniques are needed to minimise layer separation after filament change? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2022 · 5 posts · answered on Criggie’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  14. Of course, I don't know what kind of tapes you have. My experience with blue tapes is, that they seem in general softer and "nicer" than white tapes.

    Marked as the answer · Why does the painters tape have to be blue? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2019 · 5 posts · answered on Greenonline’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  15. After tightening the screws on the X-axis gantry and doing the bed leveling and test prints again it seems to have gotten better.

    Marked as the answer · Ender 3 V2 Z-axis base value changes for each print · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2021 · 2 posts · answered on ViggoV’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  16. Even though knowing the model of printer is slightly helpful, it's not critical to making your print work. Your PLA manufacturer should have recommendations for both the bed temperature and the nozzle temperature.

    Marked as the answer · Prints falling off the bed towards the end of the print · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2019 · 6 posts · answered on Loanb222’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  17. I finally reached out to anycubic and their tech support answered and was awesome! They had me update the firmware, tighten the fep film more ( instead of using the small lever I used the big lever this time), then…

    Marked as the answer · Photon S DLP first layers adhere but support will not · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2020 · 2 posts · answered on Legen Diary’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  18. Last first: use of a raft has nothing to do with bed levelling. It depends only on the features/shape/etc of the object being printed.

    Marked as the answer · What exactly does automatic bed leveling do? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2018 · 4 posts · answered on Steve In CO’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  19. Heatbeds have two purposes: Increase surface energy of the print bed to improve bonding strength of the first layer (particularly important when using surfaces like PEI or Kapton) Keep the bottom few millimeters of the…

    Marked as the answer · Heated bed - what are the benefits? Why use one? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2016 · 4 posts · answered on Beeblebrox’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  20. I do a lot with printed threads, and find this problem creeps up mostly when the filament is wet.

    Marked as the answer · Internal thread not sticking to inner wall · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2021 · 2 posts · answered on djdd87’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0