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first layer not sticking to the bed

256 threads discussed this. Here is what worked. 412 ms

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  1. Heating PLA even to 60°C will make it pliable and may affect dimensional accuracy; 100°C is likely to make that severe. Being stuck to the bed and thus constrained by it might help some, but I think it's a bad idea.

    Marked as the answer · Any possible issues with adding heat/cool down cycle in the end of print (PLA) · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2020 · 3 posts · answered on Leo’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  2. There are several things at play that can make a wider line nice to have: First layer adhesion Due to some filaments having serious struggle to get the first line or layer stuck to the bed, it can be an easy fix to just…

    Marked as the answer · Why is it conventional to set line width > nozzle diameter? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2019 · 5 posts · answered on ifconfig’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  3. Rafts: Rafts are a few layers of plastic a placed on the printing surface before the object is printed.

    Marked as the answer · What are main differences between rafts, skirts and brims? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2016 · 3 posts · answered on kenorb’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  4. Prints could end up on tray for couple of reasons. Vacuum force on early layers - Usually you should lose pieces on the center of platform Put holes or channels on platform Very slow speed on early layers Use smaller…

    Marked as the answer · SLA prints not sticking to build plate · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2020 · 5 posts · answered on DMrFrost’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  5. The biggest effect I've see on resolution is due to plastic stress due to thermal gradients. The higher resolution prints build up more layers of material, and each layer has a cumulative effect on thermal stress.

    Marked as the answer · Resolution Drawbacks · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2016 · 5 posts · answered on kaine’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  6. A close inspection of what happened when printing the first layer resulted in this: The missing steps on the new print came from the nozzle scraping too close to the print surface, which lead to no first layer…

    Marked as the answer · Sudden underextrusion on Ender3 · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2018 · 3 posts · answered on Trish’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  7. I think the reason why the large cylinder is breaking much easier than the smokestack would is because of leverage. If you print the same cylinder at a much smaller scale it might be more difficult to break it.

    Marked as the answer · How do you assure that you print layers that bond correctly? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2019 · 5 posts · answered on Valmond’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  8. People like PLA for dimensional accuracy. It's disadvantage is it becomes brittle, which can be an issue especially with thin prints if the application tends to bend it (applying force).

    Marked as the answer · How to accurately print a thin piece with a hole pattern · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2021 · 4 posts · answered on SherlockB’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  9. Your printer is improperly leveled with respect to the distance of the nozzle to the bed. This, and a high raft to print part distance, causes consecutive layers to not adhere well.

    Marked as the answer · Makerbot Replicator (5th generation) poor print quality · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2023 · 4 posts · answered on T. M.’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  10. Here is the mental framework that I use to reason about PETG: In a nutshell you want to avoid nozzle contact .

    Marked as the answer · PETG nozzle clearance and extrusion multiplier · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2020 · 4 posts · answered on Fredo Corleone’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  11. I have not given up yet! And I figured it out, I think. I tried many things, dried the spool at 60C for an hour, Simplifiy3D's slicer, but eventually playing around I found a setting that resulting in no warping during…

    Marked as the answer · TPE warping problems · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2020 · 3 posts · answered on Jeroen3’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  12. The answer now seems brain-dead obvious now. Hindsight is 20/20, amirite? I had a decent filament clog in the extruder past the end of the Bowden tube.

    Marked as the answer · Strange layer separation issues on Ender 3 · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2019 · 4 posts · answered on ifconfig’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  13. Finally, I solved all faillures today. -When the bed is too close from the hotend: I cheat the machine with a cutter patterns board over the bed at the first extruder calibration; the distance increases several times…

    Marked as the answer · Bad quality at horizontal faces · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2020 · 3 posts · answered on AJ MM’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  14. After much trial and error, I think I finally figured out the solution. Even though I could get better prints by tweaking with the temperatures, I could never totally eliminate the problem.

    Marked as the answer · First 3 mm prints poorly, then fine after that · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2020 · 10 posts · answered on Steve In CO’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  15. After watching it countless times, I found out that it was the magnetic mat on the bed that has worn out. It no longer adheres to the bed completely flat and some of the texture was worn down more than in other areas.

    Marked as the answer · Great prints then suddenly terrible quality · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2021 · 6 posts · answered on Korner19’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  16. I found the answer myself just after posting - I'm posting it because it might be helpful to other Cura novices. There is a setting for this, it's just that it's not shown by default.

    Marked as the answer · In Cura, can I make my top and bottom layer be all perimiters? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2019 · 3 posts · answered on N. Virgo’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  17. It is preferred to get the distance correct by hardware changes (leveling screws). But it is possible to do it with software.

    Marked as the answer · How to set the Z home offset · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2023 · 5 posts · answered on Matthew Goulart’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  18. All modern slicers adjust the nozzle position for the first layer in accordance with your chosen layer height. You can see this in your gcode if you slice files with different layer heights.

    Marked as the answer · Do I need to recalibrate z-probe offset every time I switch to a different layer height? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2016 · 4 posts · answered on mhelvens’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  19. Warping is caused by the plastic shrinking as it cools and inadequate bed adhesion is usually the what lets it warp.

    Marked as the answer · Does moisture cause warping? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2020 · 3 posts · answered on she hates me’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  20. I reviewed the G-Code and there was a Z-layer command that was larger than what was supposed to be. The Z-layer change shifted the nozzle up by 3x the distance it was supposed to (0.84 mm instead of 0.28 mm).

    Marked as the answer · Part not adhering to the raft · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2021 · 2 posts · answered on Diesel’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0