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first layer not sticking to the bed

256 threads discussed this. Here is what worked. 109 ms

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  1. I believe printing directly on aluminium is unwise, simply because it will expand when heated, typically giving the bed a concave or convex shape. Glass, on the other hand, does not (at least not significantly).

    Marked as the answer · Ideal print bed: Glass or Aluminium? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2017 · 9 posts · answered on Chase Westlye’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  2. The build surface on the Ender3 is a BuildTak clone. The picture is a bit unclear, but given my experience with BuildTak (clones) this certainly damage because of heat.

    Marked as the answer · Damage to bed surface from heat or chemical or..? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2019 · 3 posts · answered on R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  3. An XYZ cube is a calibration test for dimensional accuracy testing, it is not meant for extensive trouble shooting.

    Marked as the answer · Is there an extensive XYZ Cube diagnosis resource? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2022 · 3 posts · answered on wallwalker’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  4. I know many Slic3r users - myself included - add support material to the model itself before importing it into Slic3r.

    Marked as the answer · Getting better support than Slic3r generates · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2016 · 5 posts · answered on TextGeek’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  5. I believe the little experiment made by E3D - the same link you provide - answers your question very well. Several points about wear can be found in this article.

    Marked as the answer · How to identify nozzle wear? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2019 · 6 posts · answered on TheNewHobbyist’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  6. Most likely, the 3D-printers used on ISS does not incorporate some fundamental difference that allow them to print in zero gravity.

    Marked as the answer · How is 3D printing done in space? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2016 · 4 posts · answered on HDE 226868’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  7. Too Hot If you're printing too hot (with any filament, not just PLA) you're going to see stringing and blobs/oozing because the material is getting runny and exiting the nozzle in an uncontrolled manner.

    Marked as the answer · How to tell if PLA temp is too hot/cold · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2021 · 2 posts · answered on FourierFlux’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  8. In short, yes, it helps a little. Curves provide less surface area per unit volume (a sphere has the least possible surface area relative to the volume of the solid), and that reduces the rate at which the material in…

    Marked as the answer · Does having more curvier corners help warping more then smaller curves · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2020 · 2 posts · answered on Ageis’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  9. Conclusion So I found my mistake: It was the E-Steps I did wrong it over extruded. The best E-Steps per mm are 92 for me.

    Marked as the answer · I can't figure out how to name this problem or solve it · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2020 · 5 posts · answered on Ericsonpsy’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  10. Obviously, if the tape is torn or gouged in area that you intend to print on, you will need to replace it to have a good surface.

    Marked as the answer · Tell tale signs bed tape has given up the ghost · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2018 · 2 posts · answered on Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  11. A couple things to consider: Ensure that your build plate is flat and level. An un-parallel HBP could result in the object "welding" to the raft. Turn down your nozzle temperature.

    Marked as the answer · Raft hard to remove? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2016 · 5 posts · answered on Shpigford’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  12. The point of "leveling" (tramming) the bed is to make it: square with the coordinate system of the printer so that it lies in a plane perpendicular to the direction of Z travel, and a known distance from the nozzle tip…

    Marked as the answer · Why should the bed be leveled and isn't just fixed optimally? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2022 · 4 posts · answered on AndreaF’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  13. It might. If HIPS is a single material with consistent properties, it might have a narrower temperature range. Online references suggest up to 240 °C. Try that, then 245 and 250 °C. Maybe higher.

    Marked as the answer · Very low strength of HIPS prints - Why? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2021 · 5 posts · answered on StLuke5’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  14. The Ender 3 v3 SE is a direct drive extruder, so your retraction will be more along the lines of 0.3-0.8 mm. I use eSun RAPID PETG, with a bed temp of 70° C and a nozzle temp of 240° C with great success.

    Marked as the answer · Settings for printing PETG on Ender V3 SE · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2025 · 2 posts · answered on Mee’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  15. The up-curling of overhangs is frequently seen when printing PLA or PETG when the just deposited layer hasn't been cooled enough.

    Marked as the answer · How to solve ABS deformation at the bottom? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2020 · 4 posts · answered on Adrian Maire’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  16. The demo files are gcode files generated for use with the sample PLA that comes with the printer. If you want to print it with ABS select the file and set the temperature manually afterwards.

    Marked as the answer · Printer changing temperature after selecting file · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2017 · 4 posts · answered on Merlin04’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  17. Let's see what kind of errors I see (accumulated from what I commented): Underextrusion The legs seem rather underextruded.

    Marked as the answer · Gaps/Holes in the 3D Print walls · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2020 · 2 posts · answered on Andras M’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  18. You need heat to remove that. If you're hesitant to heat up the hotend, you can use a soldering iron or a butter knife heated over a lighter to start attacking the blob from the outside to get it down to a more…

    Marked as the answer · How do I remove clogged filament around a nozzle · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2023 · 2 posts · answered on Jowo’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  19. The real problem was that I damaged the nozzle (most likely while cleaning it) in a way that increased the size of the hole. So, too little filament was coming out of too big of a hole, which caused such poor models.

    Marked as the answer · How to work with PETG? Settings, caveats, etc · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2022 · 8 posts · answered on stopkillinggames.com’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  20. A flexible material, such as PETG or ABS, is probably the best. PLA is brittle, especially after absorbing moisture, and probably would crack under continued use. Nylon is good, but not easy to use.

    Marked as the answer · What material best to use for press fit parts? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2021 · 5 posts · answered on Jan van der Laan’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0