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bed leveling keeps drifting

438 threads discussed this. Here is what worked. 459 ms

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  1. From this answer on question " Z Offset on autoleveling sensor setup " we read that: If you replace the build surface for a different surface the offset doesn't have to be changed.

    Marked as the answer · How does my printer auto level based off the sensor I installed? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2023 · 2 posts · answered on Octanum’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  2. Step Zero: is always to check/adjust the bed level - if the height over the bed varies while putting down the first layer, it's hard to ever get first layer settings that work.

    Marked as the answer · First layer eventually sticks to the hotend and tears · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2017 · 6 posts · answered on Jesse Hammil’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  3. Touch sensors (or inductive or capacitive sensors) are generally used to probe the bed to determine the bed shape. For metallic beds that are not perfectly straight this works excellent.

    Marked as the answer · What are the pros and cons of using a BLTouch in place of a limit switch? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2021 · 5 posts · answered on user77232’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  4. Come back the next day and everything will be fine. It's an unfulfilling answer, but I plan to upgrade this to a better control board very soon so I'll take it.

    Marked as the answer · First layer printing too high, why am I unable to determine the reason? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2024 · 2 posts · answered on Toglik’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  5. I believe the Slic3r Manual summarizes this quite nicely: In other words, larger layer heights for the first layer typically gives better adhesion, and makes inaccurate bed leveling (and auto leveling) still work.

    Marked as the answer · How important is the minimum layer height on a 3d printer? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2016 · 4 posts · answered on CJK’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  6. From the pictures it looks like the distance between your bed and nozzle is too great. The way I see this is that the extrusion lines that should be pressed against each other have small gaps between them, and look…

    Marked as the answer · Filament not adhering to bed for the first 10 mm after every move · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2021 · 2 posts · answered on Aubs’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  7. I believe printing directly on aluminium is unwise, simply because it will expand when heated, typically giving the bed a concave or convex shape. Glass, on the other hand, does not (at least not significantly).

    Marked as the answer · Ideal print bed: Glass or Aluminium? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2017 · 9 posts · answered on Chase Westlye’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  8. My firmware actually was working just fine, in terms of probing with G29 before a print and then the Z-axis would adjust during the print.

    Marked as the answer · Z-axis lead screw not turning to adjust height when using auto leveling? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2022 · 2 posts · answered on geekgeek4’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  9. I have identified the problem as lead screw backlash! Bed calibration and Z-axis offset compensation appear to be working as intended, but there is enough backlash in the Ender 3 stock lead screw that the corrections in…

    Marked as the answer · Klipper doesn't seem to adjust Z after BED_MESH_CALIBRATE · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2019 · 2 posts · answered on ubiquibacon’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  10. I may be biased as my question/answer is the one I believe you're asking this question in reference to, but I would say that yes, it not only competes but is a far better solution.

    Marked as the answer · Does shimming my build surface compete with spending a bunch more money and time on an auto-leveling system? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2021 · 3 posts · answered on Zeiss Ikon’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  11. There are at least 2 options to address the problem that you have: Adjust end-stops so that in 0,0 position Z-sensor would still hang above the printing table.

    Marked as the answer · How to offset my probe so it's not hanging off the bed at 0, 0 position when printing · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2018 · 4 posts · answered on Ageis’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  12. I cleaned the bed with acetone and it seems to have helped, so presumably it was just a build-up of something.

    Marked as the answer · Build plate adhesion, PLA · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2019 · 3 posts · answered on Tomas By’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  13. I found the problem. This model of printer Monoprice Select v2 has bed warping issues so when the bed heated up it would warp severely. I bought a glass bed and all my problems were solved.

    Marked as the answer · My printer is making mistakes on the right half of the print, but not the left · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2020 · 3 posts · answered on Clayton Falciani’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  14. I have no idea what happened the first time I initialized everything, but I started over from the beginning and ran the Initialize EEPROM command from the UI, and then saved the settings, and then went to the probe…

    Marked as the answer · Absolute Z values not 0 at print surface after auto homing with CR-Touch · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2023 · 3 posts · answered on TJR’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  15. Just for anyone stumbling across this thread now: as it turns out, the wheels on the x-carriage (print head) were installed at a slight angle and not screwed in as tight as they were supposed to be, which probably led…

    Marked as the answer · Inconsistent Z-height on Ender 3 V2 print bed · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2023 · 2 posts · answered on jasooney23’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  16. TLDR; Make sure the bed isn't too high, the z-axis should reach the end-of-rail indicator without forcing against the bed So it appears I simply misunderstood (or mis-assumed) the way my printer works.

    Marked as the answer · Printer head too low when printing · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2019 · 3 posts · answered on Mathieu VIALES’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  17. Yes, this is the "intended" behavior, as the home in relation to the physical limit position is not placed correctly about 7.5 mm into the bed in both X and Y.

    Marked as the answer · Ender 3 nozzle homes off the bed in the Y axis · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2018 · 4 posts · answered on Steve In CO’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  18. So the new silicone buffers raised the bed by 5 mm? When this happens, you should raise the endstop also with 5 mm. Else the printer will go down to the Z endstop that is effectively 5 mm below the level of the bed.

    Marked as the answer · How do I set my Z offset? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2021 · 3 posts · answered on Pixie’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  19. Definition of leveling Tramming, often referred to as "leveling" in the 3D printer world ("tramming" and "leveling" is used interchangeably, but "tramming" is the correct nomenclature), is the process of creating a 2D…

    Marked as the answer · How do you level (or tram) your build surface correctly? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2022 · 3 posts · answered on 0scar’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  20. This turned out to be a problem with the tightness of the rollers at the left and right sides of the X-axis gantry (that roll up and down the Z rails).

    Marked as the answer · Ender 3 with BLTouch prints slanted lines · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2021 · 3 posts · answered on Robert’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0