solved.

first layer not sticking to the bed

124 threads discussed this. Here is what worked. 420 ms

Solved only ✕

  1. Make sure that the bed is level . As the saying goes, a level bed is next to godliness or something like that.

    Marked as the answer · Levelling heads for dual extruder · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2019 · 4 posts · answered on TextGeek’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  2. Replacing the nozzle depends on many things, the nozzle material (copper/brass, steel, hardened steel, Olsson Ruby Nozzle), the type of filament you print, how frequently you use the 3D printer.

    Marked as the answer · When should I replace the nozzle on my printer? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2019 · 2 posts · answered on linuxdan’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  3. I sounds like you are on the edge of almost heat creep if you start printing before the extruder cools off. See if letting the extruder cool down to near room temperature solves the problem.

    Marked as the answer · What makes a new nozzle clog before I can finish the print? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2021 · 2 posts · answered on Zeiss Ikon’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  4. The shape you get is quite easy to explain. It's the shape of the lowest energy possible in your situation. Simple but it doesn't explain the issue... or does it? It does.

    Marked as the answer · Why does my PLA filament form a spiral shape and clog my extruder? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2018 · 4 posts · answered on Curtis’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  5. Your hotend temperature is too high and/or too less part cooling. The part cooling is very important to solidify the hot fluid filament in time to have a solid fundament for the next layer.

    Marked as the answer · Calibration improvement of the Prusa i3 · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2018 · 2 posts · answered on Emile D.’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  6. For BuildTak, my first recommendation is isopropyl alcohol (aka rubbing alcohol or isopropanol).

    Marked as the answer · What should I use to clean buildtak(knock off)? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2020 · 4 posts · answered on linuxdan’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  7. The answer is that you have not used support structures. The printing fails as a result of missing support structures.

    Marked as the answer · Why does my model stop printing at the same spot? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2018 · 2 posts · answered on kane’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  8. The issues/questions raised about the automatic bed leveling using e.g. a BLTouch probe at this stack require a more in depth description of the automatic leveling functionality in general, this answers aims on…

    Marked as the answer · Automatic Bed Leveling (ABL) with a sensor (BLTouch, inductive, capacitive), how does it work? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2021 · 2 posts · answered on 0scar’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  9. I've personally had this happen when I had a minor clog in my nozzle. My first steps to fix this would be: Make sure the exterior of your nozzle is clean.

    Marked as the answer · Filament extrudes at an angle · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2016 · 4 posts · answered on Eric Johnson’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  10. The first problem is solved by removing the tick mark at Origin at center . Most printers have their origin at a corner (not Delta's, their origin is in the top center).

    Marked as the answer · How to calibrate Ender-4 · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2018 · 3 posts · answered on Chepech’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  11. Your printer is capable of printing TPU out of the box, and very well if you upgrade the firmware to Marlin 2.0. That you're having problems like this suggests that you messed something up with the direct drive kit.

    Marked as the answer · Ender 3 with direct drive has severe stringing printing TPU · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2021 · 5 posts · answered on Robert’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  12. I switched to different firmware (the latest Marlin), now the problem has been resolved. So it seems to me that those random movements are not in fact normal, but a flaw in the firmware.

    Marked as the answer · Nozzle always "randomly" moves to 0 during print, then resumes · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2021 · 5 posts · answered on Daniël van den Berg’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  13. I've not done much miniatures printing, but I have the same printer and I happen to have the exact same filament loaded.

    Marked as the answer · Why are my prints so defective? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2017 · 3 posts · answered on LegendaryDude’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  14. PETG is great stuff to work with. It is stronger than ABS also. It prints slower than ABS and PLA. The formulas vary quite a bit from vendor to vendor. I have used 3 brands, and each of their properties vary.

    Marked as the answer · Advantages of PETG filament? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2017 · 6 posts · answered on TextGeek’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  15. In my experience, we deal with 3M™ Adhesive Transfer Tape 468MP; high-temperature glue residue. To remove the leftover glue from my Aluminium build plate I found that it works best if I apply paint thinner .

    Marked as the answer · How to clean up my build plate for a new build surface? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2023 · 4 posts · answered on Trish’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  16. I must admit, I've never printed a key...but I think I can help anyway: Print method: Consider printing on side, solid concentric infill.

    Marked as the answer · 3d Key not strong enough · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2016 · 6 posts · answered on Noah’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  17. Presuming that you're talking about an 8 hour period, your printer should be designed to run for 8 hours continuous anyway, so nothing will happen regarding the bed or screen that wouldn't happen with a normal print.

    Marked as the answer · What are the risks of leaving to print overnight? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2022 · 5 posts · answered on Sliced Water’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  18. This effect you see is called stringing. Stringing can be reduced by changing any or a combination of the following slicer settings: lowering hot-end temperature, (less heat means less heat input so less runny filament…

    Marked as the answer · Anet A8 prints not good · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2018 · 2 posts · answered on tt123’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  19. Prior to a move the print cooling fan causes the filament to cool on the outside while the nozzle is still hot, when it then moves it causes a strings to form that will be cooled instantly.

    Marked as the answer · Why does my part-cooling fan cause stringing? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2018 · 3 posts · answered on Josh Painter’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  20. Paul, I'd like you to open up those brakes again and examine the rotors very carefully. I just finished a conversation with a fella who described symptoms identical to yours.

    Marked as the answer · What causes brakes to pulsate right after rotor and pad replacement? · Motor Vehicle Maintenance & Repair, 2019 · 12 posts · answered on Paul’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0