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bed leveling keeps drifting

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  1. From your initial photos, it looks like the bed level was too high, and there was thereby more material extruded than fit in the space.

    Marked as the answer · Material "clumping" when printing · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2020 · 2 posts · answered on Shades’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  2. No , the bed does not look too close to the nozzle , it could well be that it is too far from the nozzle. However, the brim looks okay, but the method you follow is questionable.

    Marked as the answer · Bed too close to nozzle? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2019 · 4 posts · answered on Lux Claridge’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  3. You can clearly print but there are also some problems it seems. To see if you're about okay when it comes to leveling, I recommend to activate the 'skirt' in your slicer soft.

    Marked as the answer · Why some corners aren't sticked well? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2017 · 3 posts · answered on WDR’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  4. It is preferred to get the distance correct by hardware changes (leveling screws). But it is possible to do it with software.

    Marked as the answer · How to set the Z home offset · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2023 · 5 posts · answered on Matthew Goulart’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  5. G28 instructs the printer to home itself to the X an Y endstops and the Z sensor determines the homing of the Z axis; i.e.

    Marked as the answer · Z Offset on autoleveling sensor setup · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2018 · 3 posts · answered on Petar Petrov’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  6. A couple things to consider: Ensure that your build plate is flat and level. An un-parallel HBP could result in the object "welding" to the raft. Turn down your nozzle temperature.

    Marked as the answer · Raft hard to remove? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2016 · 5 posts · answered on Shpigford’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  7. I would try two things you didn't mention; a bed leveling (this looks a little close) and an e-stepper calibration.

    Marked as the answer · Filament spreading apart and stringy on first layer · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2020 · 2 posts · answered on Chris’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  8. The command G1 Z-10 tells the printer to decrease the Z-axis position, i.e., move the nozzle closer to the bed. You should use G1 Z10 instead.

    Marked as the answer · gcode commands in octoprint: Z moves ignored? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2017 · 3 posts · answered on AnotherHowie’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  9. Issue is solved! Root cause was a broken thermistor circuit at board and broken thermistor. I disconnected all wires and power, measured board and thermistors resistance: E0 = ~120 Ω, (E1 and Bed) = ~700 Ω.

    Marked as the answer · Thermal runaway when power on · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2020 · 2 posts · answered on Останин Вадим’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  10. Your bed is too low - raise it by turning the knobs underneath. The first layer should not look like strings sitting on the bed as per your photo.

    Marked as the answer · Why does the first layer only adhere to bed if I increase the temperature by 10 °C and drop the speed by 75 % · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2022 · 4 posts · answered on Aaargh Zombies’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  11. An extra gap of 0.2 mm on top of your existing gap seems rather illogical as the filament is not squished at the build plate anymore.

    Marked as the answer · Adding extra Z-offset to bed for PETG in Slic3r · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2018 · 2 posts · answered on Andrew Ebling’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  12. It appears that there are several issues with the prints. First layer too far from bed The picture showing the bottom of the print clearly shows the deposited lines and gaps in between the lines.

    Marked as the answer · Print quality problem with M3D FDM printer · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2018 · 2 posts · answered on ki.c’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  13. After setting up the BLTouch in firmware, you need to activate the leveling function for every print by inserting the leveling G-code 'G29' in the start G-code script of your slicer.

    Marked as the answer · BLTouch with TH3D Ender 3 pro · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2020 · 2 posts · answered on Burak0015’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  14. As the question continued in comments, it can be read that the build plate had over-tight screws and loose screws on the build plate. This uneven tension could lead to stresses that warp the bed, e.g.

    Marked as the answer · Scratches in the build plate - How did this happen, and may it cause problems? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2019 · 3 posts · answered on some_user’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  15. Playing around with the nozzle height will help: back it off until just before you have first layer adhesion issues. Don't jam the filament into the bed as you might for ABS. This helps with small prints.

    Marked as the answer · What is the best technique to improve removing PETG from the print bed? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2023 · 6 posts · answered on Perry Webb’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  16. Your printer is improperly leveled with respect to the distance of the nozzle to the bed. This, and a high raft to print part distance, causes consecutive layers to not adhere well.

    Marked as the answer · Makerbot Replicator (5th generation) poor print quality · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2023 · 4 posts · answered on T. M.’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  17. Update and close I have changed the coupler on the z axis and levelled the bed put a print on to test, skirt and first layer look good so I think we can call this one closed and thank you very much for your comments.

    Marked as the answer · Layer 1 won't adhere anymore · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2019 · 5 posts · answered on ventis’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  18. Your nozzle is too far from your bed. The first layer isn't squished down sufficiently, resulting in these gaps. If your first layer looks like this, you should cancel your print and adjust the bed.

    Marked as the answer · Why is the bottom of my part not smooth · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2023 · 4 posts · answered on markshancock’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  19. For security reasons, you cannot move Z until home position is applied to X, Y and Z. With the level sensor attached, we need to home X and Y, and then Z will be homed in the middle of the bed (as configured).

    Marked as the answer · Configuring BLTouch with Marlin firmware · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2018 · 3 posts · answered on Athul’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  20. Even though knowing the model of printer is slightly helpful, it's not critical to making your print work. Your PLA manufacturer should have recommendations for both the bed temperature and the nozzle temperature.

    Marked as the answer · Prints falling off the bed towards the end of the print · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2019 · 6 posts · answered on Loanb222’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0