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bed leveling keeps drifting

994 threads discussed this. Here is what worked. 1603 ms

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  1. There are several ways to get the Z0 into a position the sotware can account for it without needing to write your own firmware if needed: Remove the build-tak-clone under your glass sheet to get the better heat transfer…

    Marked as the answer · Ender 3 Nozzle does not clear bed · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2018 · 2 posts · answered on hunterp’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  2. PLA is a forgiving filament, you can even print such filament without a heated bed. Although there are differences in quality between brands, PLA shouldn't need a raft to be printed.

    Marked as the answer · My Hatchbox PLA filament only allows me to use rafts · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2021 · 4 posts · answered on shwin320’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  3. Acetone should not be used for cleaning build surfaces. It attacks most plastics, probably including whatever Buildtak-clone is made of. It probably won't immediately ruin it, but it will degrade the surface texture.

    Marked as the answer · How to clean / remove frosting from build-surface · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2023 · 2 posts · answered on Crypt0’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  4. TL;DR Short answer : "There is no difference!". Long answer G-code is parsed line by line. The parser in the firmware reads the command and the options (also called parameters) following it, comments are discarded.

    Marked as the answer · What is the difference between M420 S and M420 S1? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2020 · 2 posts · answered on Steve061’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  5. These boards are 8-bit boards with limited storage capacity for your firmware, if you would need an update, as an alternative solution, a 32-bit board may be a much better solution.

    Marked as the answer · Creality CR-10 board upgrade from V1.0 to V2.0 questions · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2020 · 2 posts · answered on apesa’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  6. If you have done major revisions to the printhead by changing to another carriage, it could be that the nozzle in the carriage is not at the exact position as in the previous carriage.

    Marked as the answer · Anet A8 Z-Probe Bed Positioning going outside of bounds · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2019 · 3 posts · answered on capnjck’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  7. I think you may have used the wrong substance to clean your bed. Try using Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA). You may have left some residue behind from the soap, which is now interfering with adhesion.

    Marked as the answer · Why doesn't PLA stick to heated bed? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2021 · 4 posts · answered on Roman Matveev’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  8. No , you should not, unless you adapt your slicer settings. This answers explains the Z-offset.

    Marked as the answer · Should I calibrate Z-offset so that Z = 0 has the nozzle touching the bed? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2023 · 2 posts · answered on Patrick Rogers’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  9. For ABS it will warp unless you build a heat chamber. That said the tricks to reduce warping come down to: Material, i.e.

    Marked as the answer · 3D prints keep suffering from warping · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2017 · 5 posts · answered on Johnson Zhou’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  10. Had this problem on my second print. The nozzle was too close to the bed. The only way I got it all off was to heat the bed. Then the PLA became a bit softer and came off pretty fast.

    Marked as the answer · The filament is almost impossible to remove · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2020 · 3 posts · answered on asduskun’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  11. I know this is an old post, but I think I figured out the answer. I had the EXACT SAME PROBLEM TODAY while trying to compile custom Marlin firmware (version 2.1.2.1) for the same exact setup as you have.

    Marked as the answer · BLTouch not working on Creality Ender 3 Pro · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2023 · 2 posts · answered on Ee0Rk’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  12. There are three things to fix and one suggestion: Change follwing lines of M109 , using parameter R instead of S , because the latter is not waiting to cool down: The behavior of M420 will depend on type of bed…

    Marked as the answer · Marlin firmware: unload filament with G-code · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2021 · 2 posts · answered on Endre’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  13. Eureka! All of the other answers and suggestions on this post were all very helpful, and would likely be the right answers 90+% of the time, but they didn't give me any relief.

    Marked as the answer · Can't get print to stick, no matter what I try · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2017 · 7 posts · answered on Kenny Wyland’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  14. G-code is read line-by-line, see e.g. Is G-code read line by line? . If the posted start G-code is the actual used G-code, G29 is not executed because it is on the same line as G28 .

    Marked as the answer · G29 Auto Grid Leveling Doesn't Do Anything · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2019 · 2 posts · answered on BG100’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  15. Normally, such patterns are caused by too close printing to the bed (nozzle to bed distance too small), but considering the not fully flattened out extrusion lines (on glass I get a mirror shine fully closed surface)…

    Marked as the answer · "Seams" in first layer · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2019 · 2 posts · answered on AntiHeadshot’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  16. You have defined your bed incorrectly in the firmware. First line you print is at X=2, while it is printed a couple of centimeters from the edge.

    Marked as the answer · How center the nozzle before start printing · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2023 · 2 posts · answered on Pedro Miguel Pimienta Morales’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  17. In the end I found using the tape was a great help, getting the level correct is also a big help.

    Marked as the answer · Tips for printing and being able to get of base easily · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2018 · 6 posts · answered on SPlatten’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  18. It looks like your nozzle is a little too close to the bed, if there is not enough space, you can see through the layer and pressure can build up and ooze out when there is a little more room in a different location (if…

    Marked as the answer · Help With PLA settings · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2021 · 3 posts · answered on hugmungus’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  19. If you want to replace the PINDA probe (whatever reason for) then you can go with the BLTouch Sensor but only for certain operations.

    Marked as the answer · XYZ calibration without PINDA probe · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2017 · 2 posts · answered on user21760’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  20. Don't know if you fixed it yet but this happened to me today. There's an eccentric nut on the right. Tighten it so it doesn't wobble but not so tight that it doesn't move.

    Marked as the answer · Ender 3 - Prints above bed, but the purge/start line is perfect · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2024 · 3 posts · answered on Rob’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0