solved.

bed leveling keeps drifting

438 threads discussed this. Here is what worked. 610 ms

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  1. I found the problem. I'm using an aluminum structure for my gantry. My Chinese power supply was in contact with this structure. There was a current leak from my power supply that was messing with the Z-probe signal.

    Marked as the answer · Marlin Z-probe Failure! · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2021 · 2 posts · answered on 2012User’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  2. I managed to confirm the dragged layers were mostly due to under-extrusion . I had a faulty extruder (clicking sound) and once I swapped it out it was greatly improved.

    Marked as the answer · Partially missed / dragged layers · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2020 · 2 posts · answered on Antoine Zambelli’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  3. It seems the problem was because of Z-axis leveling (level of the X-axis), I found out that the right side was more than 3-4 mm below the left side when the Z-axis height exceeds around 8-10 cm.

    Marked as the answer · How to avoid nozzle from hitting the model? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2019 · 4 posts · answered on she hates me’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  4. I have been using a sort of a very strong hairspray called 3DLAC for about 2 years directly onto the aluminium heat bed of the Anet A8 printer I have.

    Marked as the answer · Should you use hairspray on a metal bed 3D printer? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2019 · 5 posts · answered on Tyler’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  5. Since Polycarbonate (PC) has glass transition point of 147°C (according to wikipedia) where it starts to melt, you could in theory use it as a heated bed for PLA or even PETG.

    Marked as the answer · Can Polycarbonate be used as heated bed · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2020 · 2 posts · answered on user77232’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  6. So your (clone) BuildTak bed surface is not sticking to the bed anymore, time to remove the surface and clean the heatbed and apply a new one.

    Marked as the answer · Ender 3 build surface is sticking up in the middle · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2020 · 2 posts · answered on AwesomeCronk’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  7. On my Kossel Mini I programmed it to go to the edge of the bed and purge a small amount of filament which creates a dot.

    Marked as the answer · How can I avoid that a small bit of filament sticks out of the nozzle during heating? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2017 · 4 posts · answered on Philipp Ludwig’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  8. It is normal for an Ultimaker print bed to move up. But it should be stopped before the nozzle. As it doesn't stop the end stop doesn't work.

    Marked as the answer · Print bed moves way up for printing · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2016 · 2 posts · answered on Vraj Pandya’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  9. I used to have the exact same issue with my Ender 3. I fixed it by applying some glue to the plate before it started printing; the glue makes the filament stick and not drag behind the toolhead without adhering.

    Marked as the answer · Ender 3 V2 Neo with PLA warping and not sticking on one area · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2024 · 3 posts · answered on dsw’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  10. Try to use a silicone heat conductive pad between heater and glass, where you can make a hole for the sensor.

    Marked as the answer · How is a Thermistor supposed to be installed between Heated Bed and the Glass? · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2020 · 2 posts · answered on t0bias’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  11. I have seen this a lot of times on my tronXY-X1 with an e3d-v6 via Bowden tube. It is not related to retraction but a different settin: Your first layer is set too thin or not leveled to the right height.

    Marked as the answer · Odd dotting when printing a line · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2020 · 3 posts · answered on Lux Claridge’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  12. Try a Brim (the model is rather tricky on FDM), which can help with bad adhesion. Your first laser appears coarse and not "smooched" as it should.

    Marked as the answer · Layer bending with first layer not sticking · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2020 · 2 posts · answered on Depechie’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  13. I'm pretty sure something is wrong with the firmware I downloaded. I flashed the 3/5/21 version of Marlin firmware from https://marlin.crc.id.au/ and it is somehow working better with the LCD firmware (which I got from…

    Marked as the answer · Z offset not working after flashing TH3D firmware · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2022 · 4 posts · answered on Nate Hitze’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  14. People like PLA for dimensional accuracy. It's disadvantage is it becomes brittle, which can be an issue especially with thin prints if the application tends to bend it (applying force).

    Marked as the answer · How to accurately print a thin piece with a hole pattern · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2021 · 4 posts · answered on SherlockB’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  15. Sounds like you have incorrectly set up your machine, specifically the Z offset. Or your Z endstop is physically too low and not set up properly.

    Marked as the answer · Ender 3 pro Z axis homing · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2021 · 2 posts · answered on 12x1’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  16. Finally, I solved all faillures today. -When the bed is too close from the hotend: I cheat the machine with a cutter patterns board over the bed at the first extruder calibration; the distance increases several times…

    Marked as the answer · Bad quality at horizontal faces · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2020 · 3 posts · answered on AJ MM’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  17. The uneven level is explained by the unfortunate choice of the printer manufacturer to not have a second Z lead screw.

    Marked as the answer · Diagnosing why the left side of a print detaches from the board · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2020 · 2 posts · answered on Chris Wilson’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  18. I ended up using piano hinges and the backrests are self supporting and don't move at all. Very happy with the outcome. As a side note, I routed grooves to reduce weight and add airflow.

    Marked as the answer · How to design supporting strut for 4-piece rock and roll bed · Woodworking Stack Exchange, 2022 · 2 posts · answered on Nukolas’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  19. Is your BL Touch a v3 (likely if you've only just purchased it)? If so, make sure you're using the bugfix version of Marlin 1.1.9, which supposedly fixes the compatibility issues.

    Marked as the answer · BLTouch Probing Fails Intermittently · 3D Printing Stack Exchange, 2023 · 8 posts · answered on Blubberguy22’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0

  20. You need what is commonly referred to as a load leveler system. There are several systems out on the market, such as the LoadLifter . There are several different types.

    Marked as the answer · Lift Kits or Air Suspension system for my 2015 Ram 4x4? · Motor Vehicle Maintenance & Repair, 2017 · 3 posts · answered on Calvin Titus’s post, CC BY-SA 4.0